Spanish Adventure

Dear Friends and Family,

We send you our warmest thoughts and best wishes for this holiday season.
May your world be a safe and peaceful one!!

Our last blog posting was almost a year ago on December 31^st 2013 while we were enjoying family and friends and a Christmas in Vancouver. Now a year later we are a continent away and experiencing this holiday season on the north coast of Spain in the province of Galicia.


In May of this year we flew to the Netherlands from Canada and after a few weeks of provisioning and organizing we loaded up the “Mulder” family Kangoo and drove to Spain, destination Punta Lagoa Marina in Vigo.


It was a fairly fast drive south through Europe to get to Vigo but we did discover some true gems along the way. The outstanding highlights for us included walking the ancient village of Le Mont San Michel at sunrise and having it almost to ourselves. As we left the city the first of many dozens of tour busses started to arrive. In Les Sables d’Olonne France we met our Vendee Globe Team Plastique hero Alessandro Di Benedetto, working on the vessel he skippered in that single handed sail race around the globe in 2012/13. And in the town of Saint Jean Du Luz on the Bay of Biscay just before the Spanish border, we saw the most incredible old world waterfront walkways, truly a great gift of inspired architecture.

On June 1^st we had our last night on the road in a lovely hotel called Hotel Playa in Cangas Spain almost directly across the bay from where the Ar Seiz Avel stood perched “on the hard” waiting for our return. The next day we moved into an apartment close to the boat and commenced a five month epic of boat refit, reno and rejuvenation.

What had started as a five week project with the intention of joining the OCC (Ocean Cruising Club) rally to Finisterre in August became a full on stay “on the hard” and do a
“go for the gold”  reno aboard the Ar Seiz Avel.
The fun beauty jobs included creating a richly varnished companionway hatch and interior chart table. Cosy new upholstery for the main cabin seat cushions. Setting up warm white led track lighting in the galley. Restoring cupboard doors with rich varnish and new rattan caning. Fresh paint and liners in all the bins and cupboards. As well as the wiring and installing some new solar panels that will give us an extra 275 watts of power off grid.

The not so beauty jobs included finding a  very rusty and aged bottom to a  Dorade vent that necessitated a full extraction through layers of deck and then full deck repair. The endless grinding and surfacing of the hull below the waterline to make it even more smooth and streamlined underwater. Followed closely by the bottom paint with all its very toxic antifouling properties. The list seemed to grow exponentially every time we crossed another job off of it.

In the middle of August we were finally able to leave the apartment and move aboard the Ar Seiz Avel. We were still on the hard and the bathrooms and showers were in a trailer in another part of the yard but it was a delight to finally be back in our cosy home and to fully enjoy the fruits of our labour.


We were able to stay onboard working and living until near the end of October when the weather started to become cool and unpredictable. We had completed all that we had set out to do with the exception of some final jobs that are waiting for the spring so we packed up and headed off for some well-earned rest.



We loaded the Kangoo and travelled back to Cangas for a few days to recuperate and enjoy the last warm days of the year on the beach before travelling north. With the costs to travel abroad so  high the opportunity to stay in Spain became a possibility so we decided to investigate a long  term rate for our Hotel apartment. We are now living in Cangas Spain at Hotel Playa until we move back aboard the Ar Seiz Avel later in the New Year. Luck would have it that the Azores high  pressure system has stalled over us for the better part of the fall consistently giving us spectacular warm temperatures.

The greatest blessing of this delay in the return to Canada, was that it offered up an opportunity to realize a dream that Paul’s has had for many years. Over a friendly lunch with our friend Alfredo we were granted a small workplace at the 100 year old wooden boat building facility Lagos Boatyards in Vigo. This three generation family run boatyard is steeped in history and tradition and is among the oldest of the surviving boatyards of its style. 2015 will mark their 100^th year. Congratulations!!

Paul now has a nice section of workbench at the Lagos Boatyard and has started serious work on the prototype of the “Universal Offshore Hatch”. This hatch concept includes the ability to turn 360 degrees and will have a solar component for charging batteries. The first prototype is 75% complete and looks incredible. The initial water test on the hatch was also a success, so we are well on our way to seeing this invention through to the next level with installation sometime next year.

At the end of this blog you will find a link to the Electric Sailing Project.org website  
to see the features and the progress on the prototype for the “Universal Offshore Hatch”.

The Ar Seiz Avel
is now pretty much good to go. With a new exterior paint job and graphics in the spring and new windows all around we hope to launch her in June of 2015 two years exactly since we crossed the Atlantic. It has been a long road to get here. We crossed the continent multiple times by various means over these past two years and our Camino trail journey is now complete. Our vessel as it stands at Punta Lagoa waiting for the season to change, is facing the opening between Isla de Montefaro and Isla de San Martino in the Cies islands group where we entered through it almost two years ago. The next time we are  in the water we will thread the needle again through those islands as we continue our cruising lifestyle and our exploration
of the beautiful Galician Coast.

With kindest regards and all the best for the New Year
Barbara Ann & Paul and the Ar Seiz Avel.


Adventure in Spain Photo Gallery




Universal Hatch Project    www.electricsailingproject.org
Lagos boatyard Vigo  http://www.astilleroslagos.es/index.php/en/



 Below please find links of interest of items mentioned in this blog.

Le Mont Saint Michel    http://www.ot-montsaintmichel.com/index.htm
Team Plastic sailing team   http://www.teamplastique-voile.com/
Vendee Globe sail race   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vend%C3%A9e_Globe
Town of Saint Jean de Luz   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint-Jean-de-Luz
Ocean Cruising Club   http://www.oceancruisingclub.org/
Hotel Playa, Cangas Spain  http://www.hotel-playa.com/

Happy New Year

Vancouver Canada, December 31^st, 2013

As of this month we will have come full circle with our travels overseas. 

From Canada to Panama by air last winter, Panama to Europe under sail for three month in the spring, and now our recent return to Canada from Europe again by air.  Our beloved “Ar Seiz Avel” is now safely stored “on the hard” at a wonderful marina in Vigo Spain and awaits our return sometime in 2014.

It was a true voyage of discovery. The daily challenges of wind, wave and changing weather kept us fully “in the moment” for much of the journey.  We relied on each other in a way that at times held the deepest meaning of life and death.  

Huge seas and Beaufort 8 winds. Harnessing up and then hoisting the storm sail while the monster waves crash over us as we ride the bow ...Yahoo!! 

And then moments of flat glass calm in an endless perfect ocean. 

When we finally made landfall in Spain at the  Cies Islands on the northwest coast it was three months to the day from leaving Panama. 

Ironically this landfall is within 88 km of Santiago de Compostela and the end of the ancient pilgrim’s journey Camino de Santiago.  This sailing journey of over 5500nm from the Panama Canal to Spain was our portion of the “Camino de Santiago” trail.

Across the Caribbean Sea through the Yucatan Channel to Florida and then embarking east across the Atlantic via the Bahamas, Bermuda the Azores to the north coast of Spain it was truly a spiritual journey of self discovery and connection. 

 
Now after putting the “Ar Seiz Avel” safely on land for the winter and spending a delightful and very busy summer in Holland we are back in Canada to be with family and friends and to prepare for the next leg of our cruising adventures aboard the
“Ar Seiz Avel”.

We thank you for your support this past year and wish you Season’s Greetings and all the best for the coming New Year!!!

With kindest regards,

Paul and Barbara Ann

Links on this page:

Beaufort

Cies Islands

Santiago de Compostela

Camino de Santiago

Skippers Log

SKIPPERS LOG  2013 Panama to Spain Voyage Distance At Sea Motor Hours Panama to Key West March 18 -April 02 1428 miles 90m day’s 16 days 13 hr Key West to Bermuda March 13 - April 27 1135 miles 80m day’s 14 days 23 hr Bermuda to Azores May 11- June 02 1951 miles 85m day’s 23 days 37 hr Azores to Spain June 09 – June 18 1061 miles 115m day’s 9 days 3 hr Totals 5.575 miles 82m day’s 68 days 76hr Fuel used 114 liters Slowest day: 22miles………Biggest day: 157miles Close Hauled: Sailed into the wind 34 days. [ 50% of the time ] We encountered 4 gales.  [ 30 plus knot winds ] Becalmed 7 days: [ 0 to 3 knots ] CARBON FOOTPRINT Power generating: 100w tow generator and 100w in solar panels  *We only used half a tank of diesel -114 liter - covering well over 5.000miles in a 3 month period. *After each leg we arrived at our destination with batteries fully charged, fridge and electronics running. FISHING: 1 fish only in 5500+ miles  [ where have all the fish gone ] WEATHER and the ENVIRONMENT The changing global climate……. was very noticeable on these voyages. Weather compared to other voyages I had made earlier [4x] showed significant changes. We encountered many unusual wind directions, in particular in the N Atlantic, Easterly winds instead of winds blowing from the West. * Panama’s rainy season was extreme ,lasted much longer than usual. * Oily rain in the remote San Blas Islands. [rain with oil content]  * Plastic debris in all oceans and beaches.Caribbean Sea, Gulf of Mexico, Atlantic Ocean . IMAGINE All the Garbage PLASTIC’S ….that are in ….THE WORLD Collected by all of us……Because? We get paid lb/$$$$ at the RECYCLEPLANT THEN WE MANUFACTURE Cloth’s, Building materials etc to create economy / employment / cleaner environment AROUND THE WORLD.

Azores to Spain

Horta Azores to Vigo Spain

Nine days and three low pressure system storms later we finally made the Northwest Coast of Spain.   Of all the legs on this 6000 mile journey from the Panama this one was the most challenging and intense.  Everything else we had encountered to date was really only a warm up for this voyage.

Our sailing vessel “Ar Seiz Avel” is incredibly solid and steady and kept us moving forward with relative ease in spite of the high winds and massive seas.  Just as the last storm eased we made landfall in Spain and were able to safely  tuck in on the lea side of the Spanish nature reserve Isla San Martino near Vigo.  There we anchored for a couple of days just to recoup from the voyage and to prepare ourselves for entering civilization again.

Now we are poised to fly to Holland after successfully putting “Ar Seiz Avel” in at a lovely marina near the city of Vigo.  There she will remain until we resume our “Sea Gypsy” travels.

Once we are in Holland we will share the full story.  For now please know we are happy and safe and have had an incredible ride together.

With kindest regards,

Paul and Barbara Ann

Atlantic crossing Bermuda to the Azores Portugal

Slide Show.....A Seafaring tradition Horta Murals

St Georges, Bermuda to Horta, Azores

On May 11th we set sail for the Azores with light south southeast winds and easy seas.  It was a sweet beginning  to a challenging and lengthy sail across the North Atlantic.  At about 15 nautical miles into our journey we lost sight of Bermuda and would not make landfall again for another 23 days. Overnight the seas started to build and by Tuesday we were into a strong low pressure system that nailed us with 35 - 40 knots winds from the south.  With the small stay sail alone we were traveling at 7 knots which is close to top speed for our 42ft sailboat.   

The screaming winds and big seas continued to slam us for 3 more days.  The breakers that hit us broadside sounded like a speeding freight train striking the hull.  The one blessing was that we could easily travel north east with this system so the trick was to just stay the course and ride it out.  By Thursday afternoon the system had passed us and left us with very confused and lumpy seas and almost no wind. For the next 2 days we went from light winds to no wind and spent a couple of nights "becalmed" with no progress forward.

"Becalmed" sounds like a blessing but in fact it is a condition that is exceedingly rocky and rolly with a lot of sail handling up and down as the winds arrive and then evaporate.  On day ten we were overtaken by another system that delivered heavy rain and strong winds so it was a fast sail thru the night with howling winds and grey foaming seas.  

Out in the ocean you live the weather fully.

Halfway to our destination of the Azores at about 900 NM, we were once again 'becalmed". This situation lasted off and on for the next week which very much limited any significant progress forward. When we did have wind it was "on the nose" meaning that it was coming from the direction we wanted to travel so our "point of sail" was close hauled with a heal of up to 35 degrees.  To get an idea of what that would be like think about standing in your kitchen with it tilted 35 degrees to the side.  To walk anywhere inside the cabin you are hanging onto ceiling handholds almost "Tarzan" fashion. Fortunately our stove is gimbled so at least that remains with a normal horizon...once you strap yourself in cooking is manageable.  One pot dinners certainly becomes a favorite.

Aside from the weather challenges we had many wonderful encounters with pods of bottlenose dolphins sometimes numbering up to 50 individuals zooming around our bow and circling our boat.  As we neared the Azores we passed within 30 feet of a resting Sperm Whale who dove deep within moments of us passing him.  If you were to see it from above it would look like he was giving us right of way.

On day 23 at about 9am we sighted the island of Fajal in the Azore archipelago.  By early afternoon we we settled in the marina in the town of Horta and were enjoying our first walk on land for many weeks.  Horta is an ancient port town on Fajal which is famous for its murals.  All along the harbor and around the marina there are hand painted murals from a history of vessels that have passed through here. Layer upon layer of art some very basic and some with incredible detail...all very very fun and vibrant.  Our slideshow of murals only scratches the surface of the volume of art that is here.

The Island of Fajal is volcanic in origin offering a dramatic coastline of shear rock walls that plunge for thousands of fathoms into the ocean. The last volcanic eruption took out a small whaling town on the west side of the island in 1957.  It is now mainly an agricultural island with a darker whaling history which ended sometime in the 1970's.  The people of the Azores are incredibly welcoming and genuine.  It is truly a delight to spend time in a place that offers such a great variety of fresh and inexpensive food as well as an easy going European flavor lifestyle.  It would be very easy to stay longer.

From the moment of our arrival we have been checking out the weather between us and Vigo Spain to plan the best time for our final leg of our journey to mainland Europe.  The free program we access is called ``Passage Weather`` and is an incredible resource for wind wave and weather systems around the globe.  Here is a link in case you are interested in taking a peek http://www.passageweather.com/.  FYI Our current position is 38 degrees north latitude and 28 degrees west longitude and we are traveling to Vigo Spain which is 42 degrees north latitude and 8 degrees west longitude.

We plan to leave tomorrow in the AM with predicted SW winds at our back for the next week.  We look forward to some downwind sailing and to reconnect with you once we make landfall in Spain in a few weeks.

With kindest regards,

Paul and Barbara Ann

Key West to Bermuda

 

Click here for slide show

Key West to St Georges, Bermuda

This quiet evening at anchor before we push off for the Azores is the first time we have had to pour over the details of the past few weeks and post our adventures.

 We left Key West with light south winds and flying fish skittering across the water like skipping stones.

The only tricky part on our first day back at sea was navigating the literally thousands of crab pots. They were set in long lines approximately 100 feet apart with a crab pot every 30 feet or so as far as you could see up until the freighter lanes. It then became a night of Freighter dancing as the traffic on the water was intense both coming to and leaving from Florida.  Other than that it was a rather gentle departure that would soon become “close hauled” the next day as we connected with the Gulf Stream to take us north and east.  At 2am on day two we put the second reef in the main with rolling seas heeled over at 30 degrees.

Our first destination was the Little Bahamas Bank in search of dolphins.  We only had a couple of drive by dolphin encounters during that time but Paul caught a 35lb “Goliath Grouper” that once cleaned and dressed filled one half of the freezer even after feasting on it seriously.   

Once away from the Bahamas we began working with the Sextants as Paul begins to teach Celestial Navigation to Barbara Ann.  What a delight to be within 3 NM of her first noonsite reading!!  Day seven  we made 157 NM in one day with big winds and high seas...it was a brisk and exciting day. It is a strange sight to be so heeled over that your view outside the galley window is actually one that is underwater.

The weather continued to be a challenge with days of being becalmed set against days of “close hauled” sailing.  Day eleven – log entry  “ Rough night..changed stay sail to storm sail...big waves over the bow...full harness and tether....building seas wind to 35 rain and bashing..close hauled scary ride...safe in my bunk after the sail change”.  Day twelve – log entry...woke up to downwind sailing in perfect direction..beautiful full moon later with light winds and clear skies.

In preparation for landfall we had to repair the leading edge of our Canadian flag as it had tattered in the wind over our days in Panama and the US.  As we were sitting naked in the cockpit doing the last stitches Paul all of a sudden said “Give me the flag...give me the flag’ and as he stood up he covered his private parts as the Bermuda police boat came alongside to ask us to put our VHF on to talk to Bermuda radio.  Not a particularly elegant way of flying the flag but effective as they did not stay long to chat.

We made landfall in Bermuda on the 27^th of April after 15 days of offshore sailing.  It was a welcome landfall that offered a genuine welcome and a quiet and quaint safe harbor after such a challenge at sea.

One of our most treasured encounters was with our new friends Steve and Suzanne Hollis of Ocean Sails Custom Canvas. Thank you for your generosity and warmth and especially your stone shower with all that delicious hot water.

Now we are off to the Azores..stay tuned......

Cheers from Paul and Barbara Ann